ome people prefer spring, others summer. Not many choose winter. To me, autumn is best. I was born in an early "r" month when birthday cakes are dressed up in black cats, witches and pumpkins, and bobbing for apples is a favorite past time. It is difficult to be unhappy in autumn. The sound of rustling leaves, the palette of splendid colors and the tapestry of flavors are gifts that lift the spirit.

Childhood's autumns were filled with the rhythm of the harvest. It was a time of hard work and a time of joy on our farm. We celebrated the gathering of crops and the laying by of fields. Friends and family joined us at the harvest table to eat perfectly baked country ham, sweet potato soufflé, venison roasts, acorn squash and persimmon pudding - all from local sources. It was the beginning of long evenings by a crackling fire and early morning hunts in pursuit of the elusive white-tailed deer. When one of these agile creatures is startled it turns in flight, showing the hunter its feathery snow-white tail reaching for the sky.

The white-tailed deer was an early inhabitant of South Carolina. It was a valuable asset to Native Americans and early settlers alike, providing both food and skins. Skins were used for clothing and trade. Hundreds of thousands were shipped to England. Given the extensive harvesting of the animals and the lack of good deer habitat, over time, they became nearly extinct. The deer population generally remained low until wildlife departments began restoration programs in the early 1950s. Today, given the restoration efforts and the rather prolific reproductive habits of deer, they are plentiful. Some people, whose yards have been stripped of all vegetation by them, might say they are too plentiful.

Deer hunting is part of our Southern culture, a "right of passage", handed down from one generation to the next. For the early settlers it was about survival; today, it is something more. Hunting traditions vary from region to region and family-to-family but the fundamental goals are the same - the thrill of the hunt and bringing home the bounty. Parents who are ardent followers of the tradition teach their children to hunt at an early age. It is often a family affair and includes women. Everyone learns gun safety and respect for the animal. Native Americans paused to honor the quarry and give thanks for the animal sharing its life so they might have a winter food supply. German hunting tradition honors the noble stag, which gave its life, by placing a twig in its mouth. Similar traditions are still followed on today's hunts.

Two decades ago, deer were most often hunted on foot or horseback using dogs. These hunting expeditions were called "deer drives". Dogs and men drove deer out of hiding places into sight and range of the hunters. Most hunters today prefer other methods - the most popular being either stalking or taking from a stand. Many sportsmen believe these methods yield more palatable venison. Hunters are counted on to bring home their bounty. Experienced hunters know that one of the most important aspects of the hunt is how the meat is handled after the kill. Good cooks and seasoned hunters tell us an important factor in how the meat tastes is how it was handled after being harvested. The meat should be field dressed as soon as possible. The longer the delay, the more likely spoilage or tainting of flavor occurs. Get your venison from a reliable source. Wild game cannot be sold commercially so you must rely on a hunter to provide this delicacy.

People sometimes complain about venison's "gamey" taste. Some cooks go to great lengths to hide its wild taste; often overcooking the meat and masking its flavor with all kinds of seasonings, marinades or stuffing. When asked what venison tastes like, I usually reply, "It tastes like venison". It most certainly does not taste like chicken. The unique flavor is part of the enjoyment of eating wild game. The flavor of the meat generally reflects what the animal has been eating in the wild. Wild game meat is leaner and its texture coarser than farm raised meat. It is a good idea to add some fat in the cooking process. Olive or vegetable oil can be brushed over the meat or strips of bacon can be wrapped around, or draped over the meat. Because the meat is low in fat, it provides a healthy alternative to higher fat commercially available meats. Favorite ingredients that enhance, not mask, the flavor of wild game include salt, pepper, fat (pork, beef, or vegetable oil), onion, celery, wine and Worcestershire sauce. Experienced cooks recommend cooking at low temperatures in an oven or over a grill.

Serving an autumn meal that includes a bounty of venison harvested by a friend or family member can be a special treat. A good venison roast is one of my favorite main dishes for an autumn dinner. And though summer seems like the peak of nature's bountiful moments, local fall gardens yield remarkable vegetables to add to the harvest table. This season's favorite vegetables that go nicely with venison include: sweet potatoes, acorn or butternut squash, turnips, rutabagas and collards. For dessert, pull out all the stops and make a fresh pecan pie. Your family and friends can again give thanks for the wonderful gifts of autumn. And, God bless the hunters and the cooks.

arm to table is a smart choice for people who care about quality of life. Buying locally grown foods, straight from the farm, makes perfect sense. They are fresher, tastier and more nutritious than food that has traveled hundreds, or even thousands of miles, to get to the local supermarket. A recent study indicates that the average distance food travels from farm to table is 1,500 miles. As food travels over those miles, it changes hands in transport, packaging, and marketing as many as six times. In the hours and days after harvest, produce undergoes rapid change. Moisture evaporates, natural sugars turn to starch, nutrients are depleted and flavors fade. Food harvested on local farms is picked and usually sold within a day or two, a practice that protects its flavor and nutritional value.

Like a wildfire burning out of control, an epidemic of obesity is sweeping across America. It is ravaging the health of Americans and taking a major toll on the health of the U.S. economy. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recently reported that in the year 2000 poor eating habits, physical inactivity and obesity caused 400,000 deaths. That number is just slightly less than the 435,000 deaths caused by tobacco use. A decade ago, deaths from tobacco use far out paced those related to diet. The gap is quickly closing. Obesity-attributable medical expenditures reached $75 billion in 2003. U.S. taxpayers finance about half of these costs through Medicare and Medicaid.

The younger a person begins to carry excess weight, the greater the potential impact on their future quality of life and the greater their risk of becoming an overweight or obese adult. Obesity is a major contributor to poor health, increasing the risk of a number of chronic medical conditions including heart disease, diabetes, arthritis, asthma, and certain cancers. Poor food choices and lack of physical activity are major factors contributing to the epidemic. The old adage that "you are what you eat" is more applicable today than ever.

Decades of nutrition education have not stemmed the tide of obesity. Through no fault of their own, nutrition educators could not compete with the forces of an agricultural system that yields a plentiful and cheap food supply, the compelling advertisements promulgated by food manufacturers and the pervasive availability of processed foods high in fat, sugar and calories. Nor were they able to stop the evolution of a society that is willing to sacrifice quality for convenience.

Given the failure of so many efforts to get people to change their eating behaviors, perhaps the answer lies in a much simpler solution after all - getting back to basics. Choosing to eat locally grown foods that are fresh, wholesome and tasty, and preparing them in ways that create easy, delicious meals, just might be the key to turning the tide of obesity. After years of having their palates "dumbed down" by highly processed foods, Americans are due for a break. It is time for a "renaissance of taste" based on fresh, wholesome foods that go straight from the farm to the table.

Most people can remember eating a food that truly delighted their taste buds - a juicy, tree ripened peach or a beefy, vine ripened tomato, or an ear of corn picked at its peak of sweetness. Pleasurable food memories are often associated with a sense of place - the cantaloupe from a roadside stand in New Jersey, strawberries and early peas from a farmer's market on Long Island, the "you-pick" tomatoes from a sea island farm in South Carolina. Reconnecting with these locally grown foods is a way to bring people back to the pleasures of the table and to restore health. Fresh food - simply prepared and enjoyed with the rhythm of the season.

America's children deserve access to more nutritious foods. Their quality of life now, and in the future, depends on it. While providing access to food is critical, teaching children about food is equally important. Providing education about food and agriculture broadens their perspective, makes them better thinkers, stimulates their minds to appreciate the delicacy of environmental balance and makes them capable of informed participation in the future political decisions affecting agriculture, the environment and the community.